A Walk Through the Gwangjang Market with Joanne Chung ’26

29 March 2024

The evening of March 10th was jam-packed with splendid tunes and sublime food in Seoul. It started off as some classmates and I attended a traditional Korean music concert with our splendid faculty director and his family!

The ticket to enter the performance.
Pictured from left to right: Jonathan, Margaret, Joanne, Alek, and Ambar. Photo taken by Margaret ‘25.

Across the Changdeokgung Palace, we heard the unique sounds and melodies played by traditional instruments, the gayageum (가야금) and janggu (장구), which reverberated throughout the quiet space. What an experience. The music maintained a unique tempo distribution—remarkably different from that of Western music. 

Smiling after the concert!
Pictured from left to right: Arnab, Max, Margaret, Ambar, Jonathan, Sasha, Cathy, Alek, and me. Photo taken by our faculty director!
The view outside of the Seoul Donhwamun Traditional Theater, after the performance ended.

Onward, we moved forward to the Gwangjang Market, where we tasted a myriad of classic Korean flavors. Formerly known as the Dongdaemun Market, it is regarded as one of Seoul’s oldest and most iconic markets with a variety of vendors! Its rich historical significance traces back to the Joseon dynasty with over 5,000 shops. It was quite packed with a good variety of options: sit-down restaurants, heated benches for the stands, dessert, etc.

I was instantly enveloped by the intoxicating aroma of hotteok, a Korean snack that I would consume plenty of as a child. Immediately, I just had to purchase one, and I took it to a small sit-down restaurant within the market, where a classmate and I split a beef tartare dish. Others also consumed raw octopus for the first time and other delicacies at this restaurant.  Although I didn’t take photos of these foods, they are traditional Korean foods that were fully enjoyed and eaten in minutes.

Wanting to explore the market more, some classmates and I tried some sweet and saucy Korean fried chicken and then sat down on a bench, where we told the friendly vendor which dishes we wanted. 

First was my odeng, which is a fish cake stew for a mere KRW3000 (~$2.22 USD). The hot soup was perfect for the freezing cold weather, and it reminded me of home. 

A bowl of odeng (오뎅), fish cake stew.

Next came the jokbal, which are pig’s trotters, along with tteokbokki, spicy rice cakes, and a plate of sundae, being blood sausage. These hot foods complement each other well, with a mix of savory flavors. Unfortunately, I did not catch any pictures of the sundae.

Fatty, delicious jokbal (족발) pictured, which was devoured with its nearby sauce
Huge rice cakes were used for the tteokbokki (떡볶이) dish.

Savoring the delectable meals, we eyed the dessert that was yet to come—along with the kimbap and other dishes that we knew we wouldn’t be able to finish. Stuffed, we proceeded to seek dessert, where I forced my friends to try the life-changing tanghulu with me. The cracked candy coating, which covered a variety of fruits, was so enjoyable to crunch into, and we all went for a second round.

Following came an absurdly long line for the cinnamon-sugar-coated doughnuts! While on the line, Jonathan decided to purchase a cheese hotteok which produced a satisfying cheese pull, ultimately preparing us for the sweet, sweet doughnuts. These doughnut twists were only KRW1,000 (<$1 USD), and they were made with glutinous rice flour, which provided a pleasant crunch to the dough. It was absolutely delightful and the doughnut was extremely warm upon the initial bite.

 Moments before Jonathan (pictured), Max, and I absolutely devoured the doughnut twist.

Navigating the market, I absolutely loved looking at the variety of goods that were sold, ranging from packaged gummies to the bags of yugwa.

Admiring the ambiance that the open market maintained, I knew that I wanted to come back sometime. As the day drew to a close and we bid farewell to Gwangjang Market, I couldn’t help but stay excited for the dishes that I would eat, moving forward!

The view was fantastic as we walked back to our hostel.